About Me

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Troy Nahumko is an award-winning author based in Caceres, Spain. His recent work focuses on travels around the Mediterranean, from Tangier to Istanbul. As a writer and photographer he has contributed to newspapers and media such as Lonely Planet, The Boston Review, The Globe and Mail, The Sydney Morning Herald, The Toronto Star, Counterpunch,The Irish World, The Straits Times, The Calgary Herald, Khaleej Times, DW-World, Rabble and El Pais. He also writes a bi-weekly op-ed column 'Camino a Ítaca' for the Spanish newspaper HOY. His book, Stories Left in Stone, Trails and Traces in Cáceres, Spain is published by the University of Alberta Press.As an ESL materials writer he has worked with publishers such as Macmillan and CUP.

Thursday, July 23, 2009

Brave New Travel World


I usually get various reactions from editors when I send them submissions about traveling in Iran. They usually range from complete silence to cheeky replies regarding the sanity of those who travel in such places.

So it was with great surprise that I got an email the other day from Trazzler asking me to write about Iran, in an attempt to dispel some of the myths surrounding the place.

Click over here for the first installment about Persepolis.
Alexander the Great in Yadz
Sufi mysticism in Ardabil
Marivan's Kurdish Market
Hash Smoking assasins in Alamut
Silk Road Shopping in Kashan
Cool in Tehran?
Relaxing in Isfahan
The Birth of the Renaissance in Soltaniyeh
Rolling Green in Masouleh

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Odd Choice Don't You Think?

Think of Spain and many things come to mind...Flamenco, siestas, olive oil, beaches, red wine, bull fights etc...

Older tourists might remember that, yes, a brutal dictator recently ruled these lands and of course there is all that black legend stuff associated with Spain...Inquisitions and the likes.

With all that in mind, when choosing an image to promote the country, or flights to it, what would you choose?

The Alhambra?

Barcelona?

The beaches?

Well, you would if you were working for any other company than Hungarian Airlines.

It seems in a recent promotional campaign they have unfortunately chosen the "Valle de los Caidos", Franco's mausoleum that was built with slave labour, as their promotional shot.

Kinda like Germany using Dachau in a discover Germany campaign don't you think?

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Walking Through Extremadura


Paying homage to my adopted homeland once again, this time for Romar Traveler. Click over and take a walk through Extremadura with me.

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Is Spain Sexist?

Spain still suffers from stereotypes...

Some tourists visit and feel terribly threatened when men occasionally whistle or shout "Guapa" in the street. Terribly offensive to some, but when you consider the fact that the rate of sexual violence here in Spain is remarkably lower than in their home countries, questions need to be asked.

Seen recently in the streets of Caceres...


Wednesday, June 24, 2009

The Oilier the Better


Once you've had it, as they say, you never go back. Live in a country where Olive Oil is the staple and butter becomes an anomaly. Margarine? What's that?

While Extremadura might not be as famous for Olive Oil as Andalusia, it also doesn't suffer the mass, Intensive farming (of olives) that the latter does.

Some people doing it right can be found here...Order away.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Spice it Up...Organically!


Spanish cuisine may not have hot and spicy food, but it certainly does have some wonderful spices. Saffron may be the queen of the party, but there are enough out there to challenge even the most complete guidebook menu decoder.

The most popular from this region (Extremadura) is probably 'Pimienton'. Think Paprika without the bitterness and if you've been in Spain and fallen in love with the shrimp and garlic that comes sizzling to your table in a clay dish, this is your spice.

From the making of Chorizo to the sizzling of Shrimp, it works wonders.

These Organic people can be found at fincalamesa.com.

Monday, June 22, 2009

You're Not Going There!?


Tell anyone that you're traveling to the Middle East, and in particular Yemen and you will invariably get a similar response to the title of this post. It's possible that you get a slight variant, like "You're nuts!" or the more tactful, "But, isn't it somewhat conflictive?" ranging to the brutal, "But they are terrorists!"

These accusations however couldn't be further from the truth and a little investigation into the matter shows things a lot differently from what they seem glancing at the 2 second sound bites fed to the internet world.

True, there have been kidnappings, the most recent ending in brutal and senseless murder, but let's remember that these things happen in many other places and things are not always as the headline seems. Reading past the byline reveals a new world.

Would you get a similar response if you were heading to Mexico? Just a few more kidnappings there wouldn't you say?

How about a trip to see the Pyramids? Surely the neighbours would be jealous? What about the atrocities in Luxor or the frequent bombs in Cairo?

A trip to Sunny Spain will have your office mates drooling, but what about ETA and then there were the train bombings?

Yet Yemen has an image problem...


One worsened by the customary Jambyia knife that juts from the belts of 97% of the men over 17...Worsened even further since the attacks of 9/11 and lazy journalism that never fails to mention that it is the 'ancestral home' of Osama Bin Laden, whatever that means?

The truth is that it is home to some of the kindest people in the world. People who cried with my Spanish wife when the news of the Madrid train bombings hit. People who will chase you down the street to return some money that you might have dropped as you walk along. People who will happily shout, "Welcome to my country!" as you walk along the streets. People who are as repulsed as you and I regarding acts of violence committed against civilians.

In fact, the only tourists that have been senselessly slaughtered in Yemen were a group of Spanish tourists who were deliberately targeted in a car bombing, carried out by foreign assailants.

But what about the kidnappings?

In the late 90's there was a rash of tourist kidnappings. Mainly in the desert areas where the central government's control is weakest. In order to bring the tribes under heel, the government has resorted to underhanded tactics, such as cutting off water supplies during drought periods. These tactics pushed the tribes to their last resort, the age old Bedouin tradition of kidnapping and negotiation. It is easy to reject such methods while the water flows freely from your tap, but a different matter when your children go thirsty.

A very small number of tourists have tragically been killed in these situations, but again they were not executed, but caught in the crossfire during botched rescue attempts by a government refusing to negotiate.

Once again, it's difficult, but nevertheless important to keep in perspective that these kidnappings were meant as a part of a negotiation process. The only way that powerless tribesmen thought they could influence the government.

The recent kidnappings that are front page news however are a different matter. These were not tourists, but people working at an Evangelical hospital located in an extremely conservative Muslim area.

Officials from the Foreign Ministry in Berlin believe that the Germans kidnapped in Yemen were abducted because of their missionary activities. Local Muslims had threatened one of the group and told him to stop proselytizing -- a warning the German ignored.

Whether or not the others were involved is still unclear, but the selfishness shown by those who belonged to a group whose mission statement is, "we see our mission mainly as the conversion of the peoples of the world who have not yet been reached," is unbelievable.

In their blind zealousness, these people put others at risk, that much is clear and excuses given for their charitable acts are immediately canceled out when it becomes clear that proselytizing rather than helping is their main goal.

It's easy to turn your back on a country and book your ticket elsewhere, but in doing so you play directly into the hands of the few extremists that are hoping for exactly that. By isolating a country, you only make their job of closing minds easier.

Eco Fair in Caceres


My little adopted hometown hosted its first ecological food fair this weekend. While the timing was a little bit, well shall we say interestingly chosen (read: daytime temps regularly in the high 30's and not harvest season), all the same it was a good time had by all. Though let's see if the dates are changed next year.

The few and the brave of Extremadura's ecological producers were out to show their wares. Intensive Farming, or Monoculture farming is the name of the game in the region and the bigwigs at the regional government don't want to know anything about Organic Farming, so it was nice to see some out fighting the system.

Strangely, or given the above, not-so-strangely, most of the produce is sold abroad, primarily in Germany and the U.K. So this week I'm going to try and put up some posts focusing on some of the more interesting products with links so that those of you out there can get in touch with these brave folks if you care to.

The Eco San Miguel shown above isn't so bad at all...especially when it's 40 in the shade.

Thursday, June 18, 2009

No Top 6 Lists Here

Nor Top 8's...

And not even a Top 10.

No advice on how to remember where you put your hotel key, nor inane tips on how to 'bargain like a local.'

Just a writer, not a 'travel' writer, telling of his experience. It can't be read while doing 3 other things and even demands a bit of scrolling. ADD-readers might get turned off by the 3rd paragraph of more than 3 sentences while those who failed History just might get put off by a little backstory. Bullet Points? And if you're dying for that ironically funny story about the soup in the restaurant, don't bother clicking to page 2.

Christopher Hitchen's visits Greece's new Acropolis Museum and simply tells us what he thinks.

Imagine that.

Moving Shop

  We've moved house. This blog has moved to  https://troynahumko.com/ See you over there!