
I took a walk awhile ago with my Couchsurfing host, now friend, Oya. We started in the Istanbul of the guidebooks and ended up in the Istanbul of her childhood. A walk that took us from the tank tops of Eminonou to the hiijabs and niquabs in Fatih, with a short detour to see the black robes through the last remaining churches in Fener. Needless to say which was more interesting, the guidebook loses once again. Published in Singapore in The Straits Times.

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