About Me

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Troy Nahumko is an award-winning author based in Caceres, Spain. His recent work focuses on travels around the Mediterranean, from Tangier to Istanbul. As a writer and photographer he has contributed to newspapers and media such as Lonely Planet, The Globe and Mail, The Sydney Morning Herald, The Toronto Star, The Irish World, The Straits Times, The Calgary Herald, Khaleej Times, DW-World and El Pais. He also writes a bi-weekly op-ed column 'Camino a Ítaca' for the Spanish newspaper HOY. As an ESL materials writer he has worked with publishers such as Macmillan and CUP.

Saturday, July 31, 2021

Remember Yellow Fever?


This week's Camino a Ítaca looks back to when I first started traveling. Remember those Yellow Fever passorts they used to give out? I imagine they still do? Looking back and looking forward. You can click over and read the original article in Spanish en el Hoy, or read the English version below. (PDF en castellano abajo)

If memory serves me correct, it was a little yellow booklet. Similar in size to those that banks used to give out when you opened an account with them. I used to carry it in the same ‘secret’ place with my passport when I travelled, which now that I think about it really wasn’t so secret at all. The first time I got one, I was so excited. Each little stamp that I got meant that I was one step closer to experiencing places I had only dreamt about. Each needle I had to endure meant that I was about to get on a plane to somewhere seriously ‘exotic’.

I think the first one that I got was for Yellow Fever. Then I remember there was one for Hepatitis A and another for Hepatitis B, but there was also talk about one that was going to be released that combined them both and maybe even added Hepatitis C. I think there was one for typhoid and I may have even got one for Japanese encephalitis. For me, I couldn’t have cared less. I’d go to the infectious disease specialist, we would look at a wonderful world map and I would tell her where I was going. She would then tell me what I needed and if there was a chance of malaria, dengue and diseases like this that weren’t covered by vaccines. That was it, end of story.

I think that the only time that I had a healthcare professional tell me that it was up to me to decide was when there was an experimental cholera pill that had come out, but as I wasn’t planning on visiting an area that had experienced a recent outbreak, it wasn’t necessary and she said it was up to me if I wanted to spend the money on it. It would have never occurred to me to ask which pharmaceutical company produced the vaccine. I simply knew that I was used to the sunburnt red color that I always turn in tropical countries and that I wasn’t particularly anxious to turn yellow with some terrible fever and got the needle, case closed.

This was long before the advent of Facebook and the millions of homegrown specialists that now spread their idiocy across the world at the click of a button. Illuminati that have emerged from their parents’ basements, convinced that Bill Gates was somehow going to implant them with a tracking device that was more powerful than the one they text on and carry in their pockets everywhere they go.

Of course people who are vaccinated are going to catch the virus, some may even get sick and a few may even die. This is what statistically happens when you are talking about vaccinating an entire planet. These aren’t the numbers that your cousin found on a blog and insists are true, these are empirical facts. Vaccinated people suffer a lot less from the illness, period.

I’m desperate to get on a plane again, to feel that sensation and excitement I have always felt when traveling to somewhere new. If it means one, two or even three shots, bring it on.


Saturday, July 3, 2021

Flights of Fancy to Nowhere

Saparmurat Niyazov, a.k.a Turkmenbashy

This week's Camino a Ítaca brings us to the vast steppes of Central Asia and then back again in search of the more ridiculous flights of fancy imposed upon us all by our Dear Leaders. Click over to read the original version published in Spanish in the regional newspaper, el Hoy or read the English version below. (PDF en castellano abajo)

An Italian friend of mine was once sitting in her hotel room in Ashgabat. She was in the capital of Turkmenistan on official UN business and called her mother. While she was being connected through the hotel’s Soviet-era reception, she noticed some deep heavy breathing on the other end of the line that was obviously not coming from her mom. As her mom was filling her in on the latest gossip from Venice, a sharp, accented voice suddenly broke into the conversation and insisted, “Speak English, please!”

This was during the reign of Saparmurat Niyazov, the country’s first dictator after the fall of the USSR. Turkenbashy, or head of all Turkmen as fancied himself, had had himself crowned as President for Life and brooked no dissent to his rule. So, it’s not surprising that he would have officials from the UN spied upon, even if his spooks were not multi-lingual.

When he wasn’t cracking down on the opposition, Niyazov also had a penchant for making odd decrees. Things like banning news reporters and presenters from wearing make-up because he found it difficult to distinguish between the male and female presenters or prohibiting lip synching at public concerts were a near constant during his regime. One day the Turkmens would wake up to find he had abolished the Turkmen word for bread and named it after his mother and another that he had decreed that the months would be named after him and his family.

Strange laws however aren’t reserved for Central Asian strongmen. Deep down in Florida you can get in a prickly situation if caught fornicating with porcupines, or any other animal for that matter. If you’re caught driving without a shirt in Thailand or, heaven forbid, criticize the monarchy, expect trouble. And it’s not only the Thais that revere their Dear Leaders so. The same behavior will get you into hot water in Morocco and as recently as 2012 in neighboring France it was illegal to be rude to the President or to name a pig after the head of state for that matter.

Here in Spain we’re not immune to ludicrous laws and regulations either. Naming your pig after the king probably won’t land you in jail but you might wind up in court for insinuating that the monarchy, and in particular the ex-monarch, has secrets in Switzerland.

A deeper problem however isn’t these atavistic attempts to defend the head of state’s honor or to protect the feelings of those who believe in supernatural powers. The real dilemma is simply the sheer number of laws and regulations on the books here in Spain. Many of which are obvious anachronisms that get lost in this legislative swamp. Mislaid or perhaps, like acts of good intentions rather than laws that are meant to be enforced, they end up forsaken like decaying moribund graymonoliths in the middle of roundabouts.

I propose a challenge to our legislators, one that has its roots in the country of my birth, Canada, where they recently passed the one-for-one law. A law which states that for every new federal regulation created, the government must eliminate an equal regulatory burden.

This challenge would not only reduce the number of out-of-date laws, but force legislators to seriously reflect before enacting a new fancy. If not, soon we too may find ourselves with another word for bread. 


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