About Me

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Troy Nahumko is an award-winning author based in Caceres, Spain. His recent work focuses on travels around the Mediterranean, from Tangier to Istanbul. As a writer and photographer he has contributed to newspapers and media such as Lonely Planet, The Globe and Mail, The Sydney Morning Herald, The Toronto Star, Couterpunch,The Irish World, The Straits Times, The Calgary Herald, Khaleej Times, DW-World, Rabble and El Pais. He also writes a bi-weekly op-ed column 'Camino a Ítaca' for the Spanish newspaper HOY. His book, Stories Left in Stone, Trails and Traces in Cáceres, Spain is published by the University of Alberta Press. As an ESL materials writer he has worked with publishers such as Macmillan and CUP.

Friday, December 6, 2019

All That Glitters...isn't Zara


Writing in the local paper. Local Issues with a global take. I never translate literally and the editor trims at will to make it fit. Here's my version, then theirs, which can now be seen online (in Spanish) as well.



Years ago I was following the trail of the great 14th century tangerine traveller, Ibn Battuta through S.E Asia for an travel piece that I was writing. Passing through Kuala Lumpur, I had a chance to meet up with some former Yemeni students of mine who were then studying in Malaysia. Kuala Lumpur was a world away from the mudbrick skyscrapers of Sana'a and as a travel writer, I was curious to see the gleaming Asian metropolis through their eyes. After showing us their university campus, they were anxious to show us their discoveries in this exotic place that was so foreign to all of us. 

Even though they were all from a hot place, what they couldn’t get used to was the humidity and the intense rain showers that punctuate the days in this part of the world. Ingeniously, their solution was to use the seemingly endless air-conditioned shopping malls to explore the city. These modern temples were not the open-air souks full of individual traders of their homeland. Under the shadow of the Petronas towers, at the time the world’s tallest buildings, the never-ending shops that were so unlike their experience exemplified for them what was different and therefore worth seeing. 

Now I read in these pages that one of the leading ideas for new uses for the Hospital de la Montaña here in Caceres is to turn it into a shopping mall.  The reconversion of such a key, iconic building in the heart of the city is an opportunity to make a Guggenheim-style, transformative change in our city. Not taking advantage of this opportunity to revitalize the centre of the city would be on par with the colossal mistake of banishing the University campus to its present location in the far off steppe. 

By the end of their first year in Malaysia, my students would write me of new and different discoveries they had made, long after the initial shine of the commercial temples had worn off. With a little experience, they had quickly learned that all that glitters indeed isn’t gold. Now, in the Amazon-era with the shuttering of brick and mortar shops across the globe, from Malaysia to Pintores, I’m sure that they would also agree that the last thing the world needs is a bigger and shinier Zara. 


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