About Me

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Troy Nahumko is an award-winning author based in Caceres, Spain. His recent work focuses on travels around the Mediterranean, from Tangier to Istanbul. As a writer and photographer he has contributed to newspapers and media such as Lonely Planet, The Boston Review, The Globe and Mail, The Sydney Morning Herald, The Toronto Star, Counterpunch,The Irish World, The Straits Times, The Calgary Herald, Khaleej Times, DW-World, Rabble and El Pais. He also writes a bi-weekly op-ed column 'Camino a Ítaca' for the Spanish newspaper HOY. His book, Stories Left in Stone, Trails and Traces in Cáceres, Spain is published by the University of Alberta Press.As an ESL materials writer he has worked with publishers such as Macmillan and CUP.

Tuesday, August 2, 2016

Sandwiched in between 2 Deserts, Yazd, Iran


Sandwiched between two immense deserts, Yazd has been a welcoming oasis for a long time, no really, a LONG time. Whether UNESCO is right in claiming it is one of the oldest continually inhabited places on the planet or not, the cool shade thrown by the shapely adobe walls and the refreshing breezes trapped by the badgirs (windtowers) will sate any parched traveler in the baking summer heat. While legend has it the locals weren't so kind when Alexander was testing his Greatness in the area, they even threw him in jail, today's residents will gladly show you the way when, not if, you get lost in the labyrinthine old town.

#desert #archaeology #history #getaway #ancientcultures #labyrinth #unescoworld heritage site #oasis #unesco #ancient #ancientcivilizations #jail #alexanderthegreat #windtower

Originally published on Trazzler

Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Floating the Channel in Penticton, B.C, Canada


Inching along at a crawl, bumper to bumper and the only thing you feel is...peace, quiet, and the gentle lap of water on your pedal foot. After all, this is not your everyday crosstown traffic. Under the summer sun, skip the gridlock and get to Skaha Lake by floating down the four-mile waterway that cuts Penticton in two. The flow of this jam is at the whim of the water, and serious sunburns can set in before you bob to the end. An option is to get off halfway and have a friend pick you up, or get Coyote Cruises to rent you a tube and take you home. This way, the only puncture you'll have worry about is one that will definitely get you refreshingly wet.

#adventure #cruise #river #outdoors #nature #lake #swimming #boat #summer #escape #kayaking #getaway #canoeing #outfitter #tubing #peaceful #water #paddling #travel #urban #serene #waterway #freshair #urbanoasis #tanning #sunbathing #tube #byboat #boattrips #rivertrip #sunning #riveradventure

Originally published on Trazzler

Monday, July 18, 2016

The Siesta Taxi


Image result for taxi madrid
Writing in the local paperLocal issues with a global take. I never translate literally and the editor trims at will to make it fit. Here's my version, then theirs.


Like it or not, the first and last faces that visitors encounter when arriving someplace new are its taxi drivers. And while the vehicles they drive around the world vary enormously, the drivers themselves often share at least one common characteristic, they like to talk. A trait that can come in handy to a travel writer trying to discover that special something beyond what you can see in the tourist brochures.The other day as I was leaving Madrid and came upon the unexpected closure of the blue metro line (1), I was forced to jump a taxi to get to Atocha in time for the slow train to Caceres. Our driver was at the end of his shift and his rolling commentary about the goings ons during the previous night’s Gay Pride march was infinitely more entertaining than the insightful analysis I would later read about in the newspapers, that basically focused on the tonnes of garbage that had been produced. In the two kilometres between Sol and Atocha, I was able to get a street level opinion of Carmena’s Madrid that I wouldn’t find in guidebooks, the ABC or even El Pais. An eternity later, after our train crawled into Caceres, we missed the two taxis that were waiting and had to call radiotaxi. As we waited in the midday 40 degree heat, we chatted with some Scottish tourists who had asked the RENFE agent to call for another taxi. Thirty minutes later a taxi finally arrived but he hadn’t come for either of us. In the interest of hospitality, we offered the tourists to take the taxi and asked the surprised driver to please call the central and ask where our taxi was. When the next driver finally arrived, he was shocked that we had to wait so long but unfortunately wasn’t surprised. Since they had outsourced the call service, he said this happened often. Mystery solved, now if I can only figure out why it cost us so much more to get to the old town from the station in little 'ol Caceres than it did to get from Sol to Atocha.

Monday, June 13, 2016

Battuta in Malaga


Malaga means grapes, and has for a long time. While the ancient Greeks were spreading philosophy and art throughout the Levant, they thankfully left behind the art of viniculture on the Costa del Sol. The pious Muslim traveler Ibn Battutah, who passed through in 1350, may have frowned on it, but even centuries of Muslim presence couldn't stop these delicious grapes from being fermented and traded around the known world. Just steps from the neoislamic Ataranzas market, chunky oak casks of Moscatel, Pedro Ximenez, and Pajarete sweet wines wait to be served in Malaga's oldest wine bar, Antigua Casa de Guardia. Here, you literally chalk up points as your tally gets written up on the wine-soaked wooden bar. Basic tapas like shrimp, prawns, clams, and mussels are what's on offer, but when the wine list is bigger than the menu, why ask for more?

#culinary #wine #bar #winetasting #drinking #getaway #tapas #sherry #oldschool #nightlife #islam #winecountry #winebar #localinstitution #andalusia #grapes #bodega #dessertwine #costadelsol #ibnbattutah #sweetwine #moscatel #pedroximenez #pajarete #malagueno

Thursday, May 26, 2016

Storage never looked so good. Caceres, Spain


Damascus, Istanbul and...Cáceres. Wind up the narrow lanes of Europe's third biggest intact medieval city and emerge from the labyrinth near the Plaza de las Veletas. Scan for the palace with the strange ceramic gargoyles and enter the museum. Breeze past Roman statues, Visigothic tablets, and prehistoric pig carvings that prove Spaniards have always had a thing for ham... just when you think you've seen everything, creep through a claustrophobically small door and scale down some narrow steps, the cool dampness will reach you first. In the penumbra, beautiful Moorish arches reach down into the water showing you the world's third largest intact Arabic cistern (aljibe). Who knew?

#museum #underground #getaway #medieval #water #ancient #arches #ancientrome #publicworks #oldstone #arabicarchitecture #cisterns #aljibe #waterconservation #archtecture

Originally published on Trazzler

Wednesday, May 18, 2016

The Southern Pilar...Ceuta and the Maranid Wall


Gaze across the blue Mediterranean at Europe while feeling the vast African continent breathing down your neck, and then remember, you're in Spain. Confused? You wouldn't be the first. Hidden behind the southernmost of the two pillars Hercules dropped at the entrance to this civilization-cradling sea lies this tiny Spanish enclave you never learned about in geography class. Homer wrote about Ceuta. Ibn Battutah set off from it. The Moroccan government sometimes complains about it (just as the Spanish government complains about Gibraltar), and if you're on your way to or from Morocco, you'll probably pass right through it. But rather than dash for the hideous border crossing, take a break, relax, and remember that the ferries leave every hour. After all, it's not everyday you can say you've been in Europe in Africa.

#beach #architecture #europe #mountains #coast #view #ruins #africa #spain #mythology #mediterranean #islam #offthebeatenpath #morocco #gibraltar #offbeat #spit #point #panoramic #odyssey #continent #hercules #geography # #ibnbattutah #confused

Monday, May 16, 2016

Soaking it in, Alhama de Granada, Spain


Alhama's name says it all...that is of course if you speak Arabic. Just a mile or two upriver from this quiet town astride a vertigo-inspiring canyon, a hot spring has been soothing aches and pains for two millennia. The town's name comes from the mineral-rich water bubbling out of the ground at a toasty 116.6 ºF. Here, the Romans built a spa that the Arabs later spruced up. The first known traveler to soak his road-weary feet here was Ibn Battutah en route from Malaga to Granada in 1350. However, if today's traveler wants to visit, they must either be guests of the modern balneario (spa) that has kidnapped the ruins or visit the site between the entirely unSpanish hours of 2 to 4pm. That or do as the local kids do and take a dip in the public land just below the building.

#spa #history #hotsprings #swimming #bath #getaway #ruins #medieval #muslim #muslimarchitecture #hammam #arab #canyon #islam #therapeutic #relaxing #remote #roman #ancient #andalusia #bathhouse #islamicarchitecture #geologicalanomaly #andalucia #ancientrome #ibnbattutah

Originally published on Trazzler

Sunday, May 15, 2016

The Feria del Queso in Trujillo, Spain


Soft and sweaty in the deliciously warm early May sunshine...Gorgeous, round, curvy and even just a wee bit pungent. The Feria del Queso, a culinary beauty pageant takes place in the very town that Pizarro left off from on his way to conquer Peru. These creamy contestants sport names like Tortas del Casar and la Serena, Manchego, Ibores, Tetilla, Cabrales, all of which can make the average Spaniard, male or female, stop dead in their tracks, salivate and lose their composure. Thousands gather from all over to see them unwrapped, opened, and enjoyed. The annual event in the UNESCO heart of Trujillo is a cheese lover's fantasy. 300+ varieties from all over Spain waiting to be savored with wines from the region. A reverie that makes other pageants seem, well, not cheesy enough.

#culinary #festival #wine #cheesy #cheese #village #getaway #foodie #gourmet #dairy #chowhound #extremadura #locavore #goatsmilk #producers #artesinal #cabrales #cheesefestival #dortadelcasar #quesolaserena #iboes #manchego #tetilla #rawmilkcheese #rawmilk #spanishcheese #sheepsmilk #cowsmilk #obsessionscheese

Originally published on Trazzler

Wednesday, April 6, 2016

The Iranian Deathstar, the Oljaytu Mausoleum


Unlike the Star Wars version, this massive structure levitates out of a vast plain and even seems to dominate the mountains in the distance, like a bricked-out Mongol tent in the middle of Persia that even Luke Skywalker might have trouble with. Twenty-five meters of solid domed brick crown the immense Oljaytu Mausoleum, whose construction began back in 1302. Its ingenious design gave birth to the Duomo in Florence and some would say had a hand in sparking the Renaissance. All this was spawned by a somewhat capricious Mongol benefactor who dabbled in Christianity, Buddhism, and various conversions between Shiite and Sunni Islam. Who said mixing things up a little was a bad thing after all?

#architecture #history #religion #getaway #muslim #unescoworld heritage site #islam #unesco #starwars #tomb #quirky #eclectic #giant #renaissance #mausoleum #islamicarchitecture #14thcentury #dome #duomo #brick #persia #mongols #persianarchitecture

Originally published on Trazzler

Sunday, March 27, 2016

Ruta de la Plata quick Detour


If you're walking the ancient Via de la Plata on your way to Santiago, by now your blisters have hardened into calluses and you scoff at a mere 15-mile walk. You've sung in the Romans' amphitheater, crossed their bridges, seen that cork actually does come from trees, and figured out that olives can't be eaten straight off the branch, the sour way... but you haven't seen everything yet. Hidden in a grove of cork and olive trees overlooking the Sierra de Montanchez lies a secret that's been kept for more than thirteen centuries. The Visigothic Basilica of Santa Lucia del Trampal is the perfect spot for a picnic with ham from the nearby sierra and wine from the village. Both will help you forget that tomorrow's walk is even longer.

#adventure #architecture #history #wine #outdoors #mountains #historic #picnic #getaway #church #caminodesantiago #ham #christian #rural #walking #jamon #trekking #ancientculture #country #ancient #extremadura #route #oldstone #sierra #8thcentury #st.jamesway #rutadelaplata #viadelaplata #visigothicart #jamoniberico #visigoths #visigothic #silverroute #jamondemontanchez #ancientroad

Originally published on Trazzler

Wednesday, March 23, 2016

Chasing Battuta to Gibraltar


Monkeys, Englishmen with Andalusian accents, duty-free shops, tea sets, English breakfasts, pints instead of cañas, sunburns in December, the curry you've been craving, and English bookshops... the Rock is something different for everyone. This Mediterranean protuberance has been a thorn in the Spanish conscience ever since the Berber commander Tariq Ibn Ziyad stepped ashore and changed everything back in 711. Al-Andalus was born under these modern-day camera shops, though all that remains of the Muslim presence is the Calahorra tower, whose imposing defensive properties were noted by none other than the intrepid medieval adventurer Ibn Battutah. The fortification still keeps watch over the modern-day sidewalk/runway border with Spain. Talk of the U.K. giving the rocky peninsula back to the Spanish might not make many friends here, but Euros are gladly accepted.

#architecture #history #view #medieval #muslim #castles #straitofgibraltar #spain #mediterranean #islam #fortress #border #tower #british #britishhistory #culturalcrossroads #politics #microcountry #watchtower #8thcentury #juxtaposition #spanishhistory #alandalus #conquest #ibnbattutah #muslimhistory #atalaya

Originally published on Trazzler

Moving Shop

  We've moved house. This blog has moved to  https://troynahumko.com/ See you over there!