As much as it pains me to admit it, there are times when the market can be right. But I must stress that
only sometimes, and of course not the free for all that some neoliberal
evangelists advocate. Even if Wall Street traders, lunatic orange racists, quasi
fascist Argentinian presidents with extraterrestrial haircuts and his sycophantic groupie in the Puerta del Sol would like you to believe it is
always so, history and experience clearly show that this supposed axiom only
holds true for them, those that already have the money in the first place.
But it was a headline, in
this very newspaper, that reminded me that there are times when the market isn’t
necessarily wrong. Or at least in this case, the consumer is the one who’s
right. The headline intoned, “Bread consumption in the region falls 70 percent
in 20 years.” The message was dramatic and signaled a sea change in society.
Here we weren’t talking about a slight change in habits, but a complete
revolution in the way people were eating.
Some tried to explain the
change by highlighting recent lifestyle changes and the notion that more and
more people were trying to lose weight by avoiding carbohydrates. Yet the pasta
market continues to grow and more and more people choose pizza to treat
themselves on Friday nights. No, that couldn’t be it.
Others blamed the near
apocalyptic increase in the cost of living over the past few years. Electricity
prices have gone through the roof and basic staples like flour have more or
less doubled in price and these rises have obviously had a knock-on effect on
the increased price of bread. But people continue to lavishly splurge money on
much more frivolous things than bread. So no, that wasn’t the case either.
The reason was abundantly clear.
It’s the product itself.
After having lived here in
Extremadura for going on twenty years it’s still an ongoing mystery for me, one
that rates up there with cognitive dissonance between the empty churches and
sold out Virgin and Semana Santa processions. It’s something that the great Jose Ramon Alonso de la Torre and I have differed on here in the paper in the
past, but that is still beyond confusing for me. How is it possible that in a
land with some of the country’s most exquisite cuisine, fueled by some of the
finest local ingredients, you still find yourself doomed to push sauces around your
plate with the gastronomic equivalent of licking the flaking whitewash off of a crumbling adobe
wall?
With few exceptions aside,
like the Ecotahona del Ambroz or el Horno Tradicion and Amasamadre in Cáceres, the
bread you see has become as dubious and industrial as a paella that you mind
find in a vending machine on a train in Nebraska. You can say it’s from the remotest
village and sprinkle flour on it to make it seem more rustic, but it’s still bread
that neither rests nor sleeps and thus boasts the flavor equivalent of a napkin
in a bar.
Until there is a return to
bread that rests, consumption will continue to plummet. My question now is,
what have people replaced bread with?