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Troy Nahumko is an award-winning author based in Caceres, Spain. His recent work focuses on travels around the Mediterranean, from Tangier to Istanbul. As a writer and photographer he has contributed to newspapers and media such as Lonely Planet, The Globe and Mail, The Sydney Morning Herald, The Toronto Star, The Irish World, The Straits Times, The Calgary Herald, Khaleej Times, DW-World and El Pais. He also writes a bi-weekly op-ed column 'Camino a Ítaca' for the Spanish newspaper HOY. As an ESL materials writer he has worked with publishers such as Macmillan and CUP.

Thursday, November 22, 2018

Medieval Kebabs

Writing in the local paper. Local Issues with a global take. I never translate literally and the editor trims at will to make it fit. Here's my version, then theirs.

Walking up the hill from my house and towards the Plaza del Socorro, the smell first hits me. It’s not unpleasant but certainly misplaced. An odor that I definitely wouldn’t expect as I walk to work and it takes me a moment to realize exactly what it is.

I walk under the large tree in the square and realize that what I’m smelling are...donkeys and then I remember, it’s once again the time of year for the "medieval" market in Caceres. A smell that, if you forgive the monstrosity of the prison-like looking Archive to my left, wouldn’t be so out of place among these definitively medieval surroundings.

As a stranger from a country where history was unwritten before the arrival of the Europeans, I always find it curious that once a year so much effort is made to make these streets appear even more…medieval. Renaissance jewels fronted by artisanal kebabs, medieval pizzas and knightly potatoes just don’t seem to jive, no matter how rustic the font used in their signs is. The hand-cranked rides in the Main Square do seem to fit in with the intended atmosphere but the plastic junk from China sold in the stall next to them makes the entire exercise seem a bit forced. But if indeed such jarring contrasts are what they are looking for, why not go a step further? 

How about inviting an upstart IT company to test its 5G along the cobblestone streets and in the process hopefully leave behind fibre optic cables for those us who live behind these walls? What about funding a contest to find ways to make the Arabic tiles, shielding so many building around the country, produce solar energy? Or apps that can scan a building and take the visitor on a virtual tour of what it might have actually looked like some 500 years ago. 

If nothing distinguishes our fair from all the the others that are tented up around Spain and Portugal, rather being a real, interesting attraction that attracts tourists, it ends up being just another place to eat overpriced kebabs, not matter how medieval they are.

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