Picnic in Persepolis

The book and ensuing film might have brought the name Persepolis back into vogue, but this place was already rocking when Alexander the Great came a knockin' then burnt it down in the ensuing bacchanal. Superlatives don't do what remains justice and if ancient ruins are your thing, then this is your Mecca. History lessons come to life as you realize that just maybe your education was a little too Hellenic-centered. The Achaemenid empire was second to none and these magnificent ruins retell the tale. Carved into history, Ethiopians pay tribute with Giraffes while Zoroastrian lions guard regal archways. One of the best things about them? It's very possible that you'll have them all to yourself.

#architecture #film #getaway #ruins #ancientcultures #unesco #literary #book #ancientcivilizations #unescoworldheritagesites #ancientruins #oldstone #stonecarving #classiccivilizations #persia #alexanderthegreat #achaemenid #comic #marjanesatrapi #graphicnovel #toptenliterary

Originally published in Trazzler

Guess Who's Coming to Dinner? (Spanish Radio Program)

Interviews can be difficult, add to that another language but José Carlos Macías made the experience easy. Thanks for the great time. Click over here for a listen.

Up in Trevejo, Spain

Walking through the small, lonely mountaintop village of Trevejo, you'll often find yourself alone with the sheep and goats that roam among the ancient stone houses. Perched atop the mountain, the Templar castle of Trevejo surveys the Sierra de Gata along the Portuguese border. Built on the ruins of an Arabic fortress, this 15th-century castle was built by the Templar order of St. John of Jerusalem. The locals must have long ago dug up the mythical treasure because I have it on good authority that the only thing found in the past 60 year was the skeleton of a dog that had fallen in, but at least on clear days you can see little white dots that are actually villages in Portugal. After enjoying the fantastic views, climb down the mountain and enjoy the distinctive punchy wines that are produced and enjoyed in the region.

#hiking #history #wine #mountains #view #castle #medieval #knights #templarknights #spectacularviews #templar #religionorders

Originally published on Trazzler

A Crossroads in the Desert, Bosra, Syria

In Bosra at a crossroads in the desert just an hour and half south of Damascus, the Roman world intersects the Arabic in an ancient theater turned fortress. You can imagine watching a classical play while a battle rages beyond the massive walls that were built around the free-standing amphitheater. Every summer international concerts are held in less hostile conditions where the only thing you will have to contend with is the intense summer heat. It was also here that the Muslim prophet met his first Christian and developed a positive feeling for the religion's followers.

#desert #music #festival #theater #concerts #romanruins #muslim #musicfestival #christian #livemusic #islam #summermusic festival #arabfortress #ancient #civilizations #unescoworld heritage site. #mohammed #culturalcrossroads #amphitheater #crossroads #toptenculturalcrossroads #topculturalcrossroads

Originally published on Trazzler

Hidden Hookahs in Isfahan, Iran

Call it hookah, sheesha, round these parts qaylan, but this is the way to meet and greet in Isfahan (Esfahan). Just above the entrance to the bazaar, climb up the incredibly steep stairs to the Qeysaieh Tea Shop. From this open air teahouse enjoy some orange flavored tobacco and get a magnificent view of the city that the 16th-century French poet Renier quipped about being "half the world." The world's second largest square unfolds below, Shah Abbas the Great's Islamic answer to St. Peter's square in Rome. Share a peace pipe with inquisitive Iranians as the sun sets and the beautiful buildings change colors, then watch below as the locals practice what might be called the national pastime, picnicking.

#architecture #view #picnic #sunset #getaway #muslimarchitecture #teahouse #islam #bazaar #hookah #relaxing #square #smoking #tobacco #poet #giant #tea #teahouse #sheesha #nargile #iran #qaylan #renier #frenchpoet #halftheworld

Originally published on Trazzler

Northern Tehran, Iran

Up here the mythically infamous Tehrani smog thins out just enough to get an idea of how massive this city really is. Clear cool water rushes out of the mountain backdrop, down culverts lined with enormous green trees that would seem unimaginable just a few miles south. In fact this is a place where myths are not only dispelled, but destroyed. Forget that preconceived dour black image and get ready for some of the most beautiful people watching on earth. Nosejob bandages and their successive results peer out from colored headscarves that miraculously hang on to the very back of just-out-of-the-salon hairstyles while the fashions on display will definitely make you wish you'd packed differently.

#learning #fashion #local #trendy #urban #beautifulpeople #megalopolis #localculture #pollution #suburbs #stereotypes #cosmopolitan

Originally published on Trazzler

Kashan Bazaar, Iran

The only thing bizarre about Kashan's bazaar is that it isn't overflowing with tourists. The adobe beauty of this covered market screams out for travelers, but in reality ends up calling the locals to do their daily business. Cooling mudbrick domes filter in shaped beams of light, illuminating everything from carpet wool to dates. Laid-back Caravanserais lie hidden in the lanes and it's hard to pay for your own tea among the extremely friendly locals in the many teahouses that dot this relaxed place. After picking up your camel meat, ask one of the hospitable merchants if you can climb up to the roof and add another reason to your list of why strip malls should be banned.

#shopping #market #getaway #teahouse #local #wool #bazaar #offthebeatenpath #adobe #remote #silkroad #dates #tea #coveredmarket #localculture #carpets #carpet #caravanserai #coveredmarkets #camelmeat #generous

Originally Published on Trazzler

Passion

Writing in the local paper. Local issues with a global take. I never translate literally and the editor trims at will to make it fit. Here's my version, then theirs.

No matter how long I live in Spain, there are words that I think I will never completely understand. When I say this, I don’t mean that I will never be able to remember their translation but more the way that they are used and understood. 

For example, when I hear ahora, I understand now, not in three or four minutes but at that moment. Then there’s one of the more curious Spanish words, morbo. I can read and reread its definition and even understand what people mean when they use it but can never quite use it naturally myself without sounding (or feeling) put on. But it’s precisely now, as the streets fill with incense and the sound of snare drums ricochet off the Arab walls that another confusing word arises, passion. 

Etymologically, both the Spanish and English words have their roots in the same latin word and other than a slight phonological difference they both sound quite similar. Then I think of the blood streaming from the crown of thorns, the pallor of the corpse as it’s nailed to the cross or the weeping maiden mourning her terrible loss and the absolute last thing that comes to mind is the current English use of the word. 

I’m reminded of a British colleague of mine who married a Lao girl from one of the animist tribes that live on the border with Myanmar. They were married in Vientiane but decided to take their honeymoon in France. As they were touring the country, they visited a cathedral and after a few minutes the newlywed bride ran out of the church with tears in her eyes. The confused groom chased after her and when he finally caught up with her, he asked what was wrong. Without warning, she became furious with him, demanding to know why he had taken her to a place that had so many images of people doing terrible things to a man. 

Passion, in the honeymoon sense of the word was the last thing on her mind and the only lasting impression that she took away with her was of tremendous sadness.