Is Spain Sexist?

Spain still suffers from stereotypes...

Some tourists visit and feel terribly threatened when men occasionally whistle or shout "Guapa" in the street. Terribly offensive to some, but when you consider the fact that the rate of sexual violence here in Spain is remarkably lower than in their home countries, questions need to be asked.

Seen recently in the streets of Caceres...

Spanish Sunday Afternoons #5

The orchestra on many evenings as you stroll through the old town here.

The Oilier the Better

Once you've had it, as they say, you never go back. Live in a country where Olive Oil is the staple and butter becomes an anomaly. Margarine? What's that?

While Extremadura might not be as famous for Olive Oil as Andalusia, it also doesn't suffer the mass, Intensive farming (of olives) that the latter does.

Some people doing it right can be found here...Order away.

Spice it Up...Organically!

Spanish cuisine may not have hot and spicy food, but it certainly does have some wonderful spices. Saffron may be the queen of the party, but there are enough out there to challenge even the most complete guidebook menu decoder.

The most popular from this region (Extremadura) is probably 'Pimienton'. Think Paprika without the bitterness and if you've been in Spain and fallen in love with the shrimp and garlic that comes sizzling to your table in a clay dish, this is your spice.

From the making of Chorizo to the sizzling of Shrimp, it works wonders.

These Organic people can be found at fincalamesa.com.

You're Not Going There!?

Tell anyone that you're traveling to the Middle East, and in particular Yemen and you will invariably get a similar response to the title of this post. It's possible that you get a slight variant, like "You're nuts!" or the more tactful, "But, isn't it somewhat conflictive?" ranging to the brutal, "But they are terrorists!"

These accusations however couldn't be further from the truth and a little investigation into the matter shows things a lot differently from what they seem glancing at the 2 second sound bites fed to the internet world.

True, there have been kidnappings, the most recent ending in brutal and senseless murder, but let's remember that these things happen in many other places and things are not always as the headline seems. Reading past the byline reveals a new world.

Would you get a similar response if you were heading to Mexico? Just a few more kidnappings there wouldn't you say?

How about a trip to see the Pyramids? Surely the neighbours would be jealous? What about the atrocities in Luxor or the frequent bombs in Cairo?

A trip to Sunny Spain will have your office mates drooling, but what about ETA and then there were the train bombings?

Yet Yemen has an image problem...


One worsened by the customary Jambyia knife that juts from the belts of 97% of the men over 17...Worsened even further since the attacks of 9/11 and lazy journalism that never fails to mention that it is the 'ancestral home' of Osama Bin Laden, whatever that means?

The truth is that it is home to some of the kindest people in the world. People who cried with my Spanish wife when the news of the Madrid train bombings hit. People who will chase you down the street to return some money that you might have dropped as you walk along. People who will happily shout, "Welcome to my country!" as you walk along the streets. People who are as repulsed as you and I regarding acts of violence committed against civilians.

In fact, the only tourists that have been senselessly slaughtered in Yemen were a group of Spanish tourists who were deliberately targeted in a car bombing, carried out by foreign assailants.

But what about the kidnappings?

In the late 90's there was a rash of tourist kidnappings. Mainly in the desert areas where the central government's control is weakest. In order to bring the tribes under heel, the government has resorted to underhanded tactics, such as cutting off water supplies during drought periods. These tactics pushed the tribes to their last resort, the age old Bedouin tradition of kidnapping and negotiation. It is easy to reject such methods while the water flows freely from your tap, but a different matter when your children go thirsty.

A very small number of tourists have tragically been killed in these situations, but again they were not executed, but caught in the crossfire during botched rescue attempts by a government refusing to negotiate.

Once again, it's difficult, but nevertheless important to keep in perspective that these kidnappings were meant as a part of a negotiation process. The only way that powerless tribesmen thought they could influence the government.

The recent kidnappings that are front page news however are a different matter. These were not tourists, but people working at an Evangelical hospital located in an extremely conservative Muslim area.

Officials from the Foreign Ministry in Berlin believe that the Germans kidnapped in Yemen were abducted because of their missionary activities. Local Muslims had threatened one of the group and told him to stop proselytizing -- a warning the German ignored.

Whether or not the others were involved is still unclear, but the selfishness shown by those who belonged to a group whose mission statement is, "we see our mission mainly as the conversion of the peoples of the world who have not yet been reached," is unbelievable.

In their blind zealousness, these people put others at risk, that much is clear and excuses given for their charitable acts are immediately canceled out when it becomes clear that proselytizing rather than helping is their main goal.

It's easy to turn your back on a country and book your ticket elsewhere, but in doing so you play directly into the hands of the few extremists that are hoping for exactly that. By isolating a country, you only make their job of closing minds easier.

Eco Fair in Caceres

My little adopted hometown hosted its first ecological food fair this weekend. While the timing was a little bit, well shall we say interestingly chosen (read: daytime temps regularly in the high 30's and not harvest season), all the same it was a good time had by all. Though let's see if the dates are changed next year.

The few and the brave of Extremadura's ecological producers were out to show their wares. Intensive Farming, or Monoculture farming is the name of the game in the region and the bigwigs at the regional government don't want to know anything about Organic Farming, so it was nice to see some out fighting the system.

Strangely, or given the above, not-so-strangely, most of the produce is sold abroad, primarily in Germany and the U.K. So this week I'm going to try and put up some posts focusing on some of the more interesting products with links so that those of you out there can get in touch with these brave folks if you care to.

The Eco San Miguel shown above isn't so bad at all...especially when it's 40 in the shade.

Spanish Sunday Afternoons #4

Yes, it's starting to get hot.

No Top 6 Lists Here

Nor Top 8's...

And not even a Top 10.

No advice on how to remember where you put your hotel key, nor inane tips on how to 'bargain like a local.'

Just a writer, not a 'travel' writer, telling of his experience. It can't be read while doing 3 other things and even demands a bit of scrolling. ADD-readers might get turned off by the 3rd paragraph of more than 3 sentences while those who failed History just might get put off by a little backstory. Bullet Points? And if you're dying for that ironically funny story about the soup in the restaurant, don't bother clicking to page 2.

Christopher Hitchen's visits Greece's new Acropolis Museum and simply tells us what he thinks.

Imagine that.

I ran to Iran

It seems like it is everywhere.

Twitter feeds every minute and retweets every 2. This 'revolution' will be twitterized.

The enormous country that links the Middle East with South Asia but is neither, is on everyone's lips and in every flickr.

The world has briefly stopped worrying about Nukes and is suddenly worried about its people and whether they got a fair vote. Journalists interview well-heeled English speakers in Northern Tehran about their embarrassment at their president. Comments are made out the coloured fringes of hair that extend from the 'bad hijabs' and people are surprised at how beautiful the women really are.

Few make it to the southern edges of the sprawling city and beyond into the real seat of Ahmini-whatever's power. And fewer still ask, what if it was a fair vote? It's easier to think that the builders of Persepolis are like the film maker and cartoonist rather than the angry little bearded man and turbaned clerics.



But when I think of Iran I think of people, normal people.

-A border guard who was sad to see us leave and asked us to come back soon.

-A mother of 2 asking over a sumptuous dinner in their home why everyone hates Iran.

-The same mother ruling the roost, let there be no doubt of that.

-Concerned bus drivers taking you directly to hotels rather than the station.

-Flirty young women sharing Qaylans (Sheeshas) on the most beautiful square in half the world.

-Breadmakers refusing payment, even when offered more than 3 times.

-Feeling nervous with all the black mourning flags around mosques then being kissed by strange men.

-Air Conditioner salesmen inviting you in to cool off when its clear you're not buying.

-A taxi ride I wrote about where kind people shared my fear.

-Watermelon sellers testing each one to make sure you got the sweetest.

-Picnickers everywhere, literally everywhere.

Win or Lose, Fraud or Not, the fact will remain that if I had to name one country in which traveling could truly be called an experience, I would still run to Iran.

Have you been there recently?

Blog here, Blog there

Blogging here, blogging there, does it really matter? Just posted a piece about a ramble through the lovely UNESCO town of Segovia in Spain over on the Matador Travel Network. A beautiful city that is worth more than a day trip from Madrid. Have a look if you're so inclined, just a click away.

*It seems that the page has been taken down, so I will re-post it below.

A Day Trip that could last a Week

A walk through Segovia, Spain

by Troy Nahumko

“The biggest mistake people make when coming here is that they only stay a few hours. Look around you, worth more than a few hours don't you think?”

As we sat sheltering from the intense Spanish summer sun in the relative cool of the church's 13^th century cloister, intrigued by the frightening world view of 13^th century man that was expressed in the gory nightmarish scenes carved into the Romanesque capitals, I could only agree with my guide.

Segovia is often relegated to a quick ticklist visit on many tourist itineraries through Spain. At just under 100kms away from bustling Madrid over the Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range and with the recent completion of the high-speed train link that makes the trip in around 35 minutes; it is the perfect day trip. Complete with a fairytale castle that a man named Walt once fell in love with, the sights are definitely there, but look beyond the obvious and you will find that there is plenty more to entice you to miss that last train or bus back to the city.

The first sight most tourists see of the city is in the end probably the most impressive, the words awe inspiring even lose their sense of cliché when standing under it. Threading across a square, pillars made up of huge blocks of stone rise to form a beautiful aqueduct that has been standing since the 1^st century. Roman legions, Arab princes, Visigoth kings and more recently Citroens and Renaults have all passed under its steadfast arches that still bring water into the old city core. Thankfully in its old age, cars no longer rumble under its arches.

“From here we need to have a quick drink and some tapas in order to keep up our strength.” I was told as we climbed up the street and then ducked down to the left into a little bar.

Las Cuevas del Duque in Casa Duque has been helping hungry and thirsty people since 1895 and the brief respite from the fierce summer sun was welcome. Segovia is one of the best places to sample authentic Spanish tapas, and the Cuevas is a great place to start. Order a beer or a robust wine from the nearby Rioja or Ribera del Duero regions and you are given the likes of the sinfully delicious chorizo a la olla. Best to order another wine in order to combat the cholesterol punch it packs.

Back out on the street on the Calle Juan Bravo we came to the Casa de los Picos, a curious 15^th century mansion covered in pyramid-shaped reliefs carved out of granite, but this wasn't what my guide had in mind. Opposite the pyramids you are surprised with a panoramic view of the mountain range that separates Segovia from the capital.

“What do you see when you look at those mountains?”my happily fed and watered guide asked. But before I could tell him what I thought he began to tell me the story.

“Segovia is a city of legends and if you look carefully at the mountain it looks like a woman lying down, it's called la Mujer Muerta, or dead woman. Legend has it that in order to stop her two sons from killing each other in their stuggle for power, she offered up her life to the gods if her sons would be at peace. A terrible snow storm hit that night, in the middle of summer and in the morning the mountain was there where there once had been prairie.” The very thought of snow flying in this bone melting heat made the legend sound even more dubious.

Further up the winding street we came to another of Segovia's great attractions, the Cathedral. Begun in 1525, it is considered one of Europe's last great Gothic Cathedrals. A warren of streets spreads out from here until they are stopped by the 10^th century limestone walls and natural cliffs that hem the city in on both sides. In the winding streets below the cathedral you'll find the old Jewish ghetto and more places to test your tapas.

The end of the road comes to a peak where the rivers Eresma and Clamores meet. Sitting on top of this privileged position is a castle that every child dreams of and indeed probably have seen in one way or another as Disney used it for inspiration. From below it looks like a ship setting sail and from above all of Castile stretches before you. This many times rebuilt fortress may mark the end of the street but there is still so much to see beyond, below and back where we came.

“Let me tell you another legend about a Moorish princess who...” but before my guide could finish, I stopped him.

“I'm missing my train back to Madrid, there's too much to see. Tell it and more to me tomorrow.”

Spanish Sunday Afternoons #3

Oleander, such a pretty plant with such a terrible reputation.

Twenty Tweets

Photo Pete Turner Photography

Woke up yesterday with a full inbox and a creeping sense of panic, suddenly I was being followed.

Followed I mean, in the sense of Twitter.

A post on the Matador Travel network listed me on their 20 interesting expats to follow piece and suddenly my inbox was more popular than a girl wearing a white shirt on a rainy day.

Welcome twitters, stop awhile and have a look around.

The 10 Best Places to Swim...?

I read a post the other day listing the 10 best places to swim around the world. Reading through them I realized that I hadn't been to even one of them!

Poor me, but then I thought, wait...I've swum in some lovely places.

Let's narrow them down to 3 in no particular order.

Ginnie Springs, High Springs, Northern Florida


If northern Florida wasn't interesting enough in its own time travel way, these springs are perfect. It's a surreal place to swim among the Spanish moss while the alligators patrol out in the warmer river that the springs flow into (the big toothy grins don't like the cooler water).

Bir Ali, Yemen


Yemen never makes it onto the glossy Caribbean style travel brochures, but the emerald green of the Arabian Sea is a mighty match for hurricane alley. Just outside the town of Bir Ali you can camp on a deserted white sandy beach that seems to extend all the way down to Aden. Behind you the sands of the beach meet and mingle with those of the desert on the volcanic mountains beyond, looking like snow in Arabia. In front of you dolphins come by in the mornings to chase the big schools of fish. Not enough? Rumour has it one of the 3 wise men called from these parts.

Salto Angel, Canaima National Park, Venezuala


Fancy a swim under the world's tallest waterfall. It's possible at certain times of year, or at least it was when I was there. Before making its way to the Rio Gauya, the water forms in pools in the middle of the jungle and if the volume of water isn't strong enough to flatten you, the swimming is divine.

Where's your favourite place to swim?

Spanish Sunday Afternoons #2

Rainy afternoons are good for something more than our garden.

A view from my wife's study, with the 'Torre de Caleros' (Almohad era tower) to the left over looking the valley.

Evidence that the Internet has Gone too Far...

...or a damn good idea?

You decide.

Click here

Life in the DDR

Frau H. and Herr Z.: Manfred Beier took this photograph while on vacation at the Baltic Sea in August 1954: "Frau H (71 years old) and her cousin Z. sitting In front of the house at Hafenstrasse 39 (who worked as a carpenter aboard the ocean steamer "Imperator" in 1914)

More photos of life in the DDR can be seen on Der Spiegel's international website.