Verge is going Digital

2000 years and still standing
Segovia, Spain

One of the travel magazines that I have been writing for Verge, is offering a free digital version of their magazine here.

If you're interested in traveling on a theme and making a difference, click over.

A Spring of Everything

lovely flowers outside the academy where I work

Invariably when people think of Spain they think of sunshine, beaches, warm weather, siestas, sangria...

But the truth of the matter is that this country is extremely varied and with that variety comes extremely variable weather. The lush, green rain-fed coasts of Galicia have more in common with Ireland than they do the arid desert down in Almeria.

Out here in Extremadura, the weather is exactly that, extremely hard...Admittedly winter doesn't bite here as hard as it can in places up north like Burgos, the fact is that it can be long and relatively cold, especially if you can't rid your mind of the aforementioned sun, sand and sangria.

This winter was no exception, with temperatures falling low enough to kill off the bougainvillea. Strapping on that winter gear I often asked myself why we left the warm banks of the Mekong in Laos...

This spring has been something quite different...with stretches of weather nudging 30 and then suddenly crashing down more than 15 degrees or more. I guess henceforth the name, Extremadura.

10 reasons...

...not to read post modern travel writing.

- You already know how to pack and don't need tips from someone who hasn't even renewed their passport yet

- Your tolerance for "how to" articles is limited to the instructions on a piece of IKEA furniture

- See through the inherent racism in statements like ,"not that laws mean anything in the 3rd world"

- Visited the country 2 regimes ago

- Remember going to post offices and trying to actually send letters home

- Couchsurfed before Couchsurfing

- Used to travel to Marrakesh overland

- Know who Freya Stark is and have actually read her

- Remember what pesetas, franks, escudos and marks were

- Hate top 10 lists

San Jorge in Caceres

Springtime in Extremadura and the festival season is in full swing. Right on the heels of Semana Santa celebrations and the parading of the local virgin comes the celebration of the city's patron saint, San Jorge, better known to English speakers as Saint George. A curious mix of fire, tradition and what some might call out and out political incorrectness.

The festival celebrates the Christian's 2nd taking of the city from the Moors led by Alfonso IX on April 23rd, 1229. Legend has it that the Moorish king's daughter was in love with one of the Christian Soldiers and showed him a secret tunnel under the massive walls which led to the fall of the city.

On the eve of the holiday Moors and Christians parade through the streets ending up in a mock battle in the Main Square whose climax is the burning of the thinly disguised symbol of a dragon, thus vanquishing the 'evil' Muslims.

If the imagery doesn't bother you, get to the Plaza early or the only thing you will see of the dragon are the blue lights of the mobile phones and digital cameras being held overhead of the throngs in front of you.

Semana Santa Wraps up in Caceres

There's a saying in Spain that goes along the lines of, "When you move the Saints, the sky opens up."

Well holy week this year in Spain seems to have been like that all over the peninsula, except here in Extremadura. While the temperatures did plunge more than 10 degrees from the week before, only one procession was canceled due to rain.

If the masses of people in the more famous places like Seville put you off but are genuinely interested in seeing the processional passion that envelops Spain over their Holy Week, Caceres is a great bet.

While the streets are much more crowded than normal in my adopted sleepy little city, it is still possible to find a room and spot amongst the crowds that line the streets to watch the hooded penitents sweat it out under the weight of their charges.

...and if the incense and fervour get a little too much for you, well there is always the beauty of the city to offset that bit now, isn't there?